The traditional trousers have the characteristics of crisp appearance, smooth lines and dignified style. Most of the fabrics are woven fabrics. With the development of textile technology, trousers are compatible with the fashionable atmosphere while maintaining their traditional style. Consumers have a higher pursuit of their fabric feel, performance, function and price when choosing trousers. Knitted fabrics are soft, comfortable and elastic, and with the increasing maturity of knitting technology, domestic and foreign fabric manufacturers have begun to pay attention to the development of knitted trousers fabrics. China's research and development and production of knitted trousers fabrics have just started, and there is a lack of systematic research on the performance of taking. So, how to develop a soft, comfortable and elastic knit men's trousers fabric?
Autumn and winter knitted trousers fabric design points
The autumn and winter trousers fabrics are required to be crisp, wrinkle-resistant and rigid in appearance; they are required to be wear-resistant, easy to wash, warm and thick, tightly windproof, and have certain elasticity; the color needs to conform to the market positioning and popularity. trend. However, due to the coil structure of the knitted fabric and the low twist of the knitting yarn, the general knitted fabric is relatively soft, has poor rigidity and is easy to arch, and thus affects the appearance of the trousers. Therefore, in the development of design autumn and winter men's trousers fabrics, it is often necessary to choose double-sided tissue and use a combination of various raw materials, make full use of the strengths of various raw materials, learn from each other to improve the style of knitted trousers fabrics, and improve the knitted trousers fabric. Taking performance.
Raw material and organizational structure selection
In the raw materials, the strength, wear resistance, crease resistance and stiffness of polyester can be applied, the elasticity, shape retention and texture of spandex, the smoothness of the glue, the feeling of fullness and the strong hair feel, the wear resistance of nylon Sexual, elastic and elastic recovery, the moisture absorption and soft appearance of combed cotton.
In terms of organizational structure, in view of the stable requirements of men's trousers fabrics, the flower pattern should not be fancy, and the double-layer fabric (two-faced) organization and double ribbed air layer organization (Punto Rome organization) which has been widely used in casual knitwear can be selected. ).
Speak with data: Which combination is the best?
In order to explore the raw material mix and organization structure most suitable for autumn and winter knitted trousers fabrics, five sets of experiments were conducted. Among them, 1# and 2# fabrics are made of double-faced double-layer fabric, and the front is polyester/viscose blended yarn. The surface is smooth and smooth, with strong hair feel and good moisture absorption. The polyester fabric on the reverse side is used to increase its strength and resistance. Grinding. The 3#, 4# and 5# fabrics are made of double ribbed air layer structure. By changing the variety and specifications of the feed yarn, the performance of the trousers fabric with double ribbed air layer structure of different raw material combinations is studied. The specific raw material specifications and basic parameters of the finished fabric are shown in the table below.
1#, 2# fabric materials and specifications
3#, 4#, 5# raw material varieties and specifications
Basic parameters for making 5 kinds of men's knitted trousers fabric
So, which combination is the most suitable for developing autumn and winter knitted trousers? The mechanical properties, appearance retention properties and comfort properties of the five fabrics developed were tested, namely, bursting strength, bending stiffness, elastic recovery, crease resistance, pilling, gas permeability and warmth retention. The results are shown in the table below.
5 autumn and winter knitted men's trousers fabric performance test results
Therefore, there are several suggestions for developing a soft, comfortable and elastic autumn and winter knitted men's trousers fabric:
(1) Double ribbed air layer structure and two-sided double-layer fabric can be well used for the production of trousers fabric by selecting appropriate raw material varieties and specifications, and suitable on-machine technology. For example, 5# fabrics made of nylon, spandex and combed cotton are blended with 2# fabrics, polyester/viscose blended yarns, polyester and spandex 2# fabrics, which have achieved good comprehensive performance evaluation values.
(2) When developing trousers fabrics, spandex should be used appropriately. Without the use of spandex weaving, the thickness and the gram weight are small, and the elastic recovery and wrinkle resistance of the fabric are poor. If you do not use spandex, the performance of 1# fabric is worse than that of 2# fabric.
Editor in charge: Xu Yuehua
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