Previously, fashion editors such as Suzy Menkes usually sat in the first row of the show, but now everyone can participate in the comment – ​​just have a smart phone. "Fashion should belong to everyone, especially in this globalized world," Suzy Menkes, who has been writing in his profession for almost a lifetime and has been in his 70s, is accustomed to this reality. "Of course, people like me are professionals. In terms of speaking, this seems very difficult, anyone can write a blog and have their own opinions, but in the traditional sense, we all follow the advice of “a scholar or an experienced personâ€.
On September 7, the Diane von Furstenberg (DVF) show in New York's Spring Studios, with its huge floor-to-ceiling windows, was almost always anxiously looking for cell phone signals. “Fashion and Technology?†fashion designer DVF said in an interview with “First Financial Weekly†in the background. “You can see it on Fashion Week. It's all about networking and technology.†She also pointed out sharply, “Beside, In a few years, people have to go online."
A thorough "Internet Show" will not happen soon, but with these social media stimuli, Fashion Week really became more and more noisy. These "noises" can attract more "likes" to ordinary people and are more suitable for spreading on Instagram, but they are really getting farther and farther away from the previous fashion week. For a long time, the four major fashion weeks of the year and the quarter were originally small-scale industry activities for buyers and fashion editors. Nowadays, the invasion of live broadcast and other technical means has turned it into a cultural phenomenon facing consumers. And shaken. ?
Live shows have become more and more popular. Fashion designer Tom Ford once resisted the show and was photographed. He was afraid of leaking. But from this season, his show has also started to broadcast. In an interview with Condé Nast’s website Style.com, he even stated that “Instagram is more influential than magazine interviews and reviews.†Prabal Gurung, Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la, who just passed away Renta began to try live shows earlier. “The live broadcast has long been a habit in sporting events. Why can't it be used in Fashion Week?†Rachel Arthur, global senior editor of fashion trend forecasting agency WGSN, believes this is a general trend. “More than 90% of shows in London Fashion Week have been Live broadcast was 80% last season."
Initially the show began broadcasting, and now every quarter of the fashion week is changing. "All of this is to make the show more democratized." In Arthur's view, this season's New York Fashion Week, regardless of Gareth Pugh's cooperation with Lexus The multimedia show, or the staged drama staged by Opening Ceremony, is more integrated with the consumer experience. Of course, they have also become topic makers on Instagram.
Dirk Standen, editor-in-chief of Style.com, also appeared on the DVF show. He thinks, "Today's designers can quickly become famous all over the world in a way they had never imagined before. Fashion has become a form of entertainment, just like Hollywood." Now Apple's Angela Ahrendts served as Burberry's CEO. In a similar way, “We are no longer in the fashion industry but in the entertainment industry.†About a decade ago, Style.com was able to release photos within 24 hours of the fashion show, and now people may Even one hour can't wait. J.Crew will even choose to let some active users on Instagram advance to the field. Before everyone arrives, it has already spread over the Internet.
Once you look at it with the perspective of the entertainment industry, everything will not be too surprising. Rebecca Minkoff made a few photos on Instagram before the start of the season. One is indigo, and the other is printing, which makes people choose which is better. Arthur thinks "this is not complicated, but it makes people feel involved." Fendi even used a drone, although it seems that this has nothing to do with the fashion, but people are therefore constantly talking about it. You may also notice the smart fabrics of Rauph Lauren's new season clothing, with sensors on it, colors and textures that can change with the sound of the outside world, but Polo Rauph Lauren's show is clearly more talked about. It rented a lake in Central Park, New York, and built an 18-meter-high water wall to display some 4D images. It was just like Michael Jackson's moonlight walk a few years ago. Although the clothing looks ambiguous, it does not seem to matter. When it was over, Ralph Lauren appeared like a ghost and disappeared in the water curtain. This glamorous video has nearly 70,000 hits on YouTube.
Suzy Menkes, who has witnessed all this, believes that these brands no longer need to wait for the spread of the text, and quickly show themselves to the world. Prior to joining Vogue Magazine, she worked in the International Herald Tribune for several decades, and the important fashion shows were virtually absent. This means that it is sometimes necessary to write a fashion commentary on six brands in a day and even start writing on the spot. "We imagined that a show would cost $750,000. If we finally get 750,000 tweets or pictures on Instagram, it would be wise. For these new designers, the participation of Instagram's generation of consumers began. It's important."
Not only the brand, Fashion Week itself also hopes to enhance its sense of presence in the contest, and technology has become a means to create differences. Natalie Massenet, founder of NET-A-PORTER, said not long ago that he hopes that London will become “the capital of the most technological capital of fashionâ€. 78% of the invitees surveyed by the British Fashion Association before the start of the London Fashion Week said they would send a tweet. Eventually there were 300,000 tweets and 100,000 Instagram photos tagged with London Fashion Week.
This first-time urgency to see the show and show also spread to the consumer level. The traditional fashion cycle needs to wait 4 to 6 months before the product can reach the shelf, and now people want to get the clothes on the T stage faster. There is no doubt that this kind of instant acquisition mentality is e-commerce training. Moda Operandi, a website that can instantly reserve show apparel, has seen a rapid increase in popularity over the past few years. The fast fashion brand Topshop has gone even further. In this year's London Fashion Week, people can buy T on the stage at the store on the day of the show. Clothing and accessories. “Topshop blurs the differences between different seasons and makes consumption “seasonal,†Arthur commented. “It doesn't have to go through a buyer, but many other brands are not so flexible.â€
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