Secrets of the royal jewels that are unknown

At the beginning of the last century, there was a touching story in the UK that loves Jiangshan and loves beauty. The heroine of the story, Mrs. Simpson, has a huge emerald ring. This ring is from the former King Edward VIII who gave up the throne for her, and later the Duke of Windsor. Today is telling you the story behind the beauty of the river, the rare gemstones of the royal family that are known to the world~~

Edward VIII: Garland style

In the late nineteenth century, French jewelers provided an elegant "garland style" for the world of jewellery, with round frames and decorative flowers and leaves on it to make the "garland-style" jewellery look like a beautiful picture. At this time, the precious metals used in jewels and precious jewellery are no longer just silver and gold, and platinum is beginning to be used. Platinum has superior brightness and hardness relative to gold and silver. Platinum is used to make precious metal for traditional jewellery less, and the jewellery itself is lighter and more precise.

In the era of Edward VIII, the flower-shaped brooch, which was applied in the art of 珐琅, was made in 1905, and the broad leaf design clearly has an influence from the East.

The olivine pendant of Edward VIII, made in 1905, is a square cut and a tear-cut peridot with fancy gold gold, no different from the 18th century style.

The bird of paradise brooch, made of gold, platinum, emerald, and yellow gems, was made in 1950. It was out of the influence of the times, and the jewellery style arbitrarily quoted the styles of each period.

Victorian era: alliance with diamonds

The Victorian-style bracelet, made of ruby, gold and diamonds, was made in 1880. The Queen's aesthetic appeal is far-reaching and far-reaching. The bracelet jewelry at the time reached its peak in the application of colored gemstones.

The worm-shaped brooch, influenced by the Victorian-era nature, was made in 1880 and is decorated with pearls and rubies.

After the fall of Napoleon the Great, who was inclined to the classic style for the imperial system, there are still many imperial empire in Europe, vying to show off their respective power status and wealth in the country. The demand for noble jewellery by the royal aristocrats of all countries is not diminished. The strong classical colors prevailing in the First Empire of France gradually withdrew from the trend, replaced by simple, rounded lines, set off semi-precious stones of precious colored stones such as red treasures, green treasures, diamonds, enamels; Design themes such as flowers, branches, rice, wheat, butterflies, and vines, showing an aesthetic form of attention to nature. British royal jewelers have developed a rich imagination, and natural plant styling has begun to prevail. The aquamarine, which has just been widely used during this period, is impressive. The retro-inspired light fancy gold wire is covered in large olivines, and the Victorian jewellery is elegant and quiet.

Secondly, in the gold-based jewelry, the craftsmen began to inspire the jewellery of enamel. Colored gems and white enamel complement each other. During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, nostalgic emotions and romanticism were taken seriously. These classic aesthetics made the bracelet jewelry at the peak of the application of colored gemstones.

Early 20th Century: Art Deco Decorationism

Since the beginning of the 20th century, LouisCartier has incorporated some of the design inspiration and styles from Egypt, Persia, Far East and Russian ballet into traditional geometric designs and abstract designs. In 1906, they began to apply some new materials with rich colors, such as onyx and coral, to the design, and formed a strong Art Nouveau style. This style was hailed as ArtDeco after the International Modern Decoration and Craft Art Exhibition in Paris in 1925.

Chalcedony and brooch, manufactured in 1890, during the period of scientific mysticism, Asian, African, and Latin American cultures were welcomed by Europeans who were hunting.

A collection of natural styling and decorative art glamour bracelets made in 1925 using expensive emerald and sapphire materials.

Art style bracelet, made in 1880, diamond-shaped cut ruby ​​and diamond combination of a mixture of decorativeism and Victorian style, it is undoubtedly ahead of its time.

Made with amethyst, gold and diamond pendants, made in 1910, the highly developed precision machinery industry has made it a complete watch in the square.

The aquamarine is the main stone, the diamond is a short necklace, which was made in 1950. At this point, the minimalist aesthetic has completely overwhelmed the luxurious decoration style.

When it comes to influence, making precious jewellery a symbol of wealth and taste of the old aristocracy, new capital, and becoming an important carrier of modern design art, William Morris did it in 1887. In Renellalik, where high-end jewellery craftsmen gather, the jewelers who pursue the French art style have a similar tendency to seek new inspiration from nature. Rather than the sense of history pursued by classical style. Jewelry at this time emphasizes artistic design rather than expensive materials. New materials have also been introduced to Europe, such as animal horns from Africa. Fresh, curiosity, the craftsmen of William Morris and Renellalik meet the psychological needs of the new rich people of Europe.

From the appearance of decorative jewellery in the exhibition of Paris in 1925, the art of decoration in the body is now only the design method; the traditional European classic style frame is still reflected, and the jewelry still retains the strong geometric features. However, the use of precious colored gemstones has become the strength of luxury jewellery at the same time. Together with non-gems such as black agate, jade, amber and agate, it combines unprecedented colorful jewels. Small grain diamonds are cut into various shapes to suit new jewelry design needs. The new jewellery styling is mostly abstract, although inspired by the art style of the late 19th century. At the same time, because of Europe's further contacts with China and Egypt, non-European culture has entered the mainstream of jewelry design, and a small amount of exoticism has been cited.

After the US economic recession in 1929, the entire Western world, the old and new mainland stock markets, also fell. This means that in order to adapt to the downturn, jewelers can only choose cheap colored gemstones, such as aquamarine, to deal with the buyers of enamel. Although the number of jewellery made by white diamonds is still large, the proportion in the entire jewelry industry is It has dropped a lot.

After the 1940s: at a low tide

Before and after the Second World War, the popularity of Art Deco style in jewelry was further highlighted. At the same time, the fashion industry introduced a strap buckle, paying attention to the silhouette creation. It is often seen that the Hollywood goddess wore a wide shoulder design and a tightened waist, and the length also has a skirt that is obviously shortened. The war-affected Europeans have no shortage of jewels, and the new demands of Americans have led to aesthetic changes, and contemporary color jewellery tends to be large and bright modernist designs. At the same time, since the Allies and Axis Powers in the war collected gold as a financial strategic material, after 1935, platinum also gained a more important position.

The simple design of aquamarine and diamonds, created in 1940, demonstrates the unique beauty of the transitional period of decorativeism and deconstruction.

The aquamarine ring was made in 1965. The alloy technology was further developed. The rectangular cut diamonds were connected in series to form a line, and the two-color gold piled up to imitate the classicism.

The aquamarine ring, made in 1910, has an elegant and artistic structure on both sides of the gemstone. It is the embodiment of the artistic style.

Cartier's 1947 cockatoo brooch, blue turquoise and sapphire with gold diamonds, is a typical combination.

A typical decorative art work, made in 1930, highlights the beauty of the large sapphire itself, accompanied by a beautiful ring of diamonds.

Cartier's work in 1930, which used a lot of round crystal and rectangular cut crystal, the gold alloy applied after the 1920s makes the setting firmer, the fixing claws are few, and the gems are arranged more. Intensive.

After 1950, the elegant style and pop art began to influence the world. After a bleak World War II decade, fashion design began to recover in the 1950s, and there was a refreshing newlook (new look), a long A-line skirt, tight tops, elegant and refined. Dior, the fashion guru, is known as the "gentle dictator" in a soft and elegant style. In the design of clothing, a large number of artificial leather, coated fabrics, and metal and plastic products are used. The successful "new look" instructor Dior did not completely rule out the pre-war and wartime style of jewelry inheritance, emphasizing that it should be designed according to the size of the gem.

However, the end of the aristocratic era could not be stopped even by the masters of aesthetics. The biggest trend of the prosperous 1950s was that the world's jewellery returned to platinum diamonds, and colored gemstones fell into a relatively long period of relative silence.

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