Burberry settled in Tmall Mall

Recently, the British brand Burberry broke the attitude of international luxury goods on the third-party B2C platform. It settled on the official website to enter the official flagship store of Tmall, and explored the way of Tmall. Special funds. Although Tmall coded for Burberry's sales figures, it still can't cover up the evaluation. The beginning and end of this time, we have taken this opportunity to pull the Chinese luxury goods market from multiple levels. It's just a tear.

From the perspective of B2C, from the traffic entrance to the logistics exit, Ali voted for Weibo, rookie, traffic, search for Shenma, Youku Tudou, and so on. It is unknown whether or not to invest in aviation in the future. In the direct sphere, there are still areas where traffic and logistics can be brought in, not in the luxury goods and services industry.

Tmall wants to pull up and evolving from Taobao’s moving image to Shin Kong. From Burberry's arrival to the Tmall Diamond Show, the prohibition of promotional texts, plus the invitation to settle on a variety of actions in some categories, is nothing more than to promote high-profile. This is well known to all. The arrival of Burberry is obviously an advantage.

From the brand level, Burberry's expansion in China is extremely fast. Of course, this is based on the willingness to save money. In Beijing alone, Saite, Dongfang Xintiandi and even Yaole Xintiandi’s Asian flagship store, the core business district’s eye-catching shop recruits, signaled the importance of this “plaid shop” for the Chinese market. The Chinese people do have long faces. They are their major consumer groups at home and abroad.

Burberry is an independent brand, as opposed to the French LV Louis Vuitton (LV), which is owned by Louis Vuitton (LVHM), and Gucci (Gucci), which is owned by Kaiyun Group (formerly known as Paris Spring: PPR). Brands are relatively easy to enter the platform. As for the impact on the offline market, Burberry has already bought back dozens of stores in China since 2010; secondly, it authorized the Sanyang Chamber of Commerce to independently design and manufacture the Blue Label/Black Label series. From the perspective of extending the product line to deal with the market, it is not a precedent; in the end, only the impact on its European market is left.

Even so, whether it is purely anti-counterfeiting or advertising is not a reason to support the micro-trading official flagship store. In the long run, only the reason for the corresponding decline in the Chinese market is the best.

From a market perspective, not only Burberry, the entire luxury goods industry in China has shown some signs of slowing down or even decline.

Luxury goods in China are due to high premiums, high esteem, and high-speed material development that “three highs” nourish the market. Although the proportion of various consumer groups is difficult to sample, for the Chinese people following the "reciprocity," the country's spending power at major points at home and abroad does indeed exceed the demand for self-use. If it is not a collection, it is a gift. Declined formal market.

Regardless of the proportion of reciprocal gifts, the key word for gifts and self-use is "face." Regardless of whether it is for personal use or not, the purchase of a luxury product must be understood by people at least. This is the initial consumer appeal. Until now, it has not generally risen to the evolution of personal taste as its original intention, and has not stepped out of the stage of “talking about money” for others to see.

For the time being, clothing apparel is taken as an example, and brand recognition is used as a ruler, and luxury goods are roughly divided into three categories.

The first category: classic big single product is represented by Burberry lattice, Louis Vuitton chessboard, Gucci classic logo, Chanel Lingge and so on. There is a very strong identification system that can be seen at a glance what brand it is. A powerful identification system combined with prominent street-facing stores, and abide by the "Dao Ruo brand law": "recognize, remember, live, find". Even coaches who are laughed at as a foreign grocery shopping package are also infiltrated with strong brand recognition and marketing (marketing in a broad sense, including channel, advertising, public relations, etc., facing consumer behavior). China has risen rapidly. This category is often called: entry luxury, is the second and third categories of entrance.

The second category: The traditional big brands are represented by Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo, Armani and Zegna. Like the first category, there are many street-level shops (counters) and advertisements in China, but they weaken the brand's identification system and classic single products. They mainly rely on brand design and Logo to identify. If the first category is too showy, then the second category is relatively low-key. The first category is said to be entry consumption, while the second category is biased towards normal consumption.

The third category: Small-minded brands represented by designer brands or single products may not yet enter the Chinese market. Manual, limited, single category. The first and second brands also come from this stage. For example: Louis Vuitton is relying on canvas travel bags grow, Chanel is relying on selling hats, Hermes is the name suggests is to do the origin of the harness. The initial example of Burberry was only a raincoat. Therefore, it can also be said that this category is the prototype of the first two categories.

The first category is the most controversial, some people like crazy, some people are despise rude. But this did not stop the first-class selling.

From the spiritual perspective, consumer wealth has accumulated more and more. From the first category to the third category, consumption power is becoming stronger and stronger. Theoretically, it is the normal logic of development (for the time being, it is called “the evolution of luxury goods consumption”.) ): For the key "talking money" to buy the first type of identification system strong "big single product", out of the normal "talking money" expanded to buy the second category "big brand", for "taste" to buy The third category of popular designer single items or brands.

But in reality, this evolutionary logic can only be established by a small group of people. Otherwise, the third category of luxury goods should occupy the largest market share (even if the capacity of each single brand is limited, but the brand's market capacity will be greater).

As Buffett said: "The billionaires I know have made me understand that wealth only makes the virtues that they have had been demonstrated. As for people who are originally bastards, wealth cannot change anything, they just become Money bastard."

This is a universal logic. Thousands of Chinese scholars studied it thousands of years ago. For example, with the "Zhongyong" made by Zi Si, it is: "The destiny of the heavens is the precept of nature, the path of sexuality is the preaching, and the cultivation of the Tao is the preaching of teaching. Those who are the Tao are not required to be separated from one another, but can be separated from each other."

What Feng Menglong said in “Awakening the Word” is: “Easy to change, easy to change” is this “sex”. Consumers are also born with ambiguity about luxury goods. “The theory of evolution of luxury goods consumption” cannot be established on all people. It is because of “paradoxical nature”. The group with the largest proportion will regard “talking money” as a key factor. This is the “way” of consumers, that is, the wealth that Buffett said cannot be changed. Because "there is also no way to escape, but also to leave, non-way too." The "way" of luxury goods is "talk about money."

Can't this be broken? "The path of sexuality is said to be Taoism. The same ambiguity, different habits and circumstances will also produce change, this environment is the so-called circle. When it comes to circles, you have to pull down again.

Seen from the circle level, the so-called circle is a community of people with common interests or interests. The so-called circle marketing is the best way to tap individual consumer value. However, in all kinds of chicken soup, there is a circle behind the business but it is the cart before the horse.

Confucius said in his “Easy Classics”: “Together with the sound, with the gas”, this is the logic of the circle, based on the same interest or interest. Note that it is the common "sound" or "qi" that re-aggregates together to become a circle, that is, a circle of critical interest or interest. For example, because he loves to play football, he enters a football circle and then starts to buy Lottery, instead of playing in a circle and playing football. It's also not possible to buy Football Lottery and love to play together (even if it's because you love playing football or you have a lot of interest in the first place), because the former is not a key benefit.

So, a person may be in several circles. There may be intersections among these circles. Perhaps they are totally irrelevant. But every small circle is in a big circle. This big circle is called "society." Society is the most influential circle, and even affects the circle of those small circles. (As for the group of people who influence the industry and even change the world, they should think that they are the lines that form the boundary of the circle.)

Therefore, the first-class luxury products are sold well, or the brand recognition system is powerful in playing a leading role, of course, a lot less powerful retail channels and rigorous advertising investment. Because most people in the entire society are LOW.

The second- and third-class luxury products that are influenced by small circles are not only an example of selling well, but are relatively narrow in scope. Because there are few small circles that can directly influence people through social circles, they are all “borderline” people who form a social circle.

From the perspective of society, there are two aspects of the social impact of this big circle to individual consumers: value orientation and commercial advertising.

Commercial advertising does not have to be said, mainly to build a subconscious.

What kind of value-oriented contemporary people measure and respect people? How wealth to highlight their wealth? Luxury goods, bright and shiny luxury goods.

It can be seen that only when the information is gradually symmetrical, the gap between the rich and the poor is narrowed, and spiritual civilization returns, luxury goods consumption is universal (customary consumption in the middle class, and consumption in the middle of the country), and social value orientation may evolve into taste and the like. . Otherwise, if the mainstream value orientation is not changed, the replacement of a generation and a generation will not change the consumer psychology that starts with “talking money”.

However, the Internet is making information gradually symmetric, which brings something other than respect to the luxury consumers who have the original intention of “talking about money”: “Quhou Fu”. The decline in the luxury gift market is directly related to this phenomenon, with the strongest impact on products such as Burberry plaids.

From a perceptual level, we can see how much “Qiufu” has influenced various types of luxury consumption, and it has had little impact on normal consumers. Because the overlap between the mainstream consumer groups of luxury goods and online word-of-mouth manufacturing groups is very small, it can even be said to be entirely two waves.

One wave of people lingered on the Internet and another wave of people used it online. Why are you still being used? Personality differentiation. That is, the behavior differentiation in the network and the real world, and the differentiation in life and work. For example, those who do not use black donkey cards on the Internet have encountered a client who has used a donkey card at work, and they have no intention of glanceing at them, and even use it to find topics to compliment their business. In turn, customers find that business staff use donkey cards and may think that they are taller.

Well, donkey card consumers feel that they have a positive side, so why should you give up the consumer donkey card? Choose a niche brand that nobody knows? Obviously, most mainstream consumer spirits are not rich enough. The degree of oil flow.

Why did the middle class that originally advertised taste buy donkey cards?

Using a phenomenon: The owner of Beijing Qiaofufang Grassland likes to collect Dali's works. He will get praise from people who don't know Dali. If you switch to security at the entrance? Go to the hell, like the beard with the moustache overturned, this security must be sick.

This can be proved: the first type of luxury goods to explain the lowest cost, followed by the second category.

As another example, a “female man” from the car home sent a photo of driving DUCATI. Ordinary jeans and sneakers were widely criticized because they did not match Ducati. There is a logic here: For a stranger, wearing Ducadi to wear this clothing is a taste of nature, and if Ducati does not impress strangers, it is "a piece of silk." This logic combined with the first category of luxury brands, contains a strategy: large or durable goods is a strong brand recognition, small or quick products to weaken the identification of strengthening personality (beautiful, comfortable variety), is a great Luxury product structure.

From the material level, according to a single spiritual logic, it is not enough to explain why the first type of “entry” large single product can maintain market share for a long time.

The normal luxury consumers may not always repeat the purchase of luxury products with very small discrepancies in the first category. Therefore, the first type of luxury consumer is more experiential. If you want to save food and buy a bag that is close to canvas, it will not save you from malnutrition. Since the difference in iterations is small, it will not be obsolete at one and a half. Buying one can be used directly to make a fortune, and it does not matter if the hardware wears out. In this way, the daily use cost is reduced a lot, and due to the strong brand recognition system, the spiritual value is rising.

Here again reveals a market logic: the mass market oriented to the majority is the key to maintaining long-term vitality. The first type of luxury goods are "fast sales" in luxury goods.

China does not have as many hereditary nobles as Europe can support the huge luxury market. Even during China’s reign, China’s luxury goods were embodied in porcelain, jade and other handicrafts. In addition, women’s rights were not released, feudal concepts of concealment, and luxury clothing and apparel products did not grow. Therefore, under the concept of opening up luxury goods in Europe and the United States, the consumer base of the first type of luxury goods has become larger, and the “experienced” group that is close to “dreaming for a dream” has become the support of new customers. The bigger the foundation of such people, the better. They are present and future. So for Burberry, the arrival of Tmall clearly has this benefit.

From the entry of the first classic “big single product”, the entire brand corresponds to the normal consumer group, and the first brand of luxury goods is established on this basis.

From the design level, the above levels are all based on brand recognition. Brand recognition is in other words design. In addition to the decline in the gift market, the design trend is the one that can affect luxury sales.

For garments, design is a collection of styles + fabrics + cuts. For example, if the same pair of pants is straight or tapered, whether it is cotton or silk, whether it is flat or vertical, it is a matter of design. The first of these three is the style, style is immediate, fabrics and tailoring to try on and long-term wear to experience. Therefore, styles, fabrics, and cutting are just like the second hand, minute hand, and hour hand. There are great differences in the frequency of updates. All three are variables, only the cycle difference. It is not difficult to understand that the first type of luxury goods's identification system mainly depends on graphic patterns.

Unlike luxury designs that have emerged from European nobles, extremely simplified designs are spreading from industrial design. When luxury goods are extremely simplified, the first category of brands who are good at playing four-way serial patterns are “isolated” because product design tends to “debrand”. The colliding of luxury goods and “de-branding” should first be reflected in the shift of identification and providing focus, one is the consideration of the future mainstream consumer groups in the information-developed era, and second is the suppression of the “gift” market in China. The target crowd is blurred and magnified.

From a strategic perspective, Dubai and China are the two special markets for luxury goods. The former rely on the tourism industry to be sold locally from the local and the latter is bought back from the world. Therefore, China is the most special consumer market.

To sum up, whether it is the multi-brand strategy of Lu Wei Xuan, or the single brand strategy like Burberry, the strong awareness of strong channel + strong recognition + strong advertising is the necessary means for the luxury. The Chinese market has nourished such exotic "luxury brands" as Valentino and Montagut. The importance of channel power is evident. The channel power of clothing is stronger than that of fast-selling products. It can also be proved from many billion-dollar apparel brands that are not seen.

Therefore, for Burberry, Tmall's channel power is second to none. It can maximize the minimum cost to make up for the "gift" market that shows signs of decline and expand personal consumption. Just directly synchronizing the price on the line, it is difficult to guarantee the sales of loneliness. It is not as direct as a direct deputy. Otherwise, this "transaction" with Tmall will not be as profitable as Tmall. Even better than the four-figure clothing brands on Tmall, they are getting more profitable.

For luxury e-commerce, the old slogans that use the luxury brand flow to drive overall sales are more and more savory.